THE DISH; Molto Pistachio - The Archive - The New York Times

THE DISH; Molto Pistachio - The Archive - The New York Times: "THE DISH; Molto Pistachio
By JILL SANTOPIETRO (NYT) 675 words
Published: November 6, 2005

THE DISH; Molto Pistachio
By JILL SANTOPIETRO (NYT) 675 words
Published: November 6, 2005

''Gelato'' is often misunderstood as the Italian word for ice cream. Gelato certainly is Italy's version of ice cream, but it has less cream, less butterfat to bind to air molecules and, therefore, less air than American ice cream. A small cup of gelato typically weighs the same as a cup of ice cream double its size.

In Italy, gelato varies as much from maker to maker as it does from region to region. Sicilians have long been renowned for lighter gelato made with milk and no eggs. In 16th-century Tuscany, Bernardo Buontalenti, the Medicis' architect, is said to have popularized gelato made with a sweetened milk-and-egg custard. And in northern Italy, where dairy products are more plentiful, gelato tends to be thicker and richer, with more egg yolks and cream.

Although communication and a wider availability of ingredients have melded these schools of gelato, today the distinction between artisanal and industrial gelato remains important. Antonio Lisciandro, the owner of Gelateria Carabé in Florence, explained: ''With modern industry you see perfect gelati. Not mine. My gelato is alive. Imperfection, strength and quality, these are the elements that matter -- that make healthy products.''

We took a classic gelato flavor, pistachio, and made it -- hopefully imperfectly -- in these three variations. One thing they all share is a drab shade of green, which is the correct color of authentic pistachio gelato.

Milk

Makes 1 quart

4 cups whole milk

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup sugar

2 cups shelled, toasted, unsalted pistachios, finely ground.

1. In a small bowl, pour 3 tablespoons of the milk over the cornstarch and whisk until smooth.

2. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, bring the remaining milk to just before the boil. Whisk in the salt, sugar and cornstarch mixture until the sugar has dissolved, about 8 minutes.

3. Transfer the pan to an ice bath. When cool, stir in the pistachios. Refrigerate overnight.

4. Strain, pressing on the nuts to release all the liquid. Churn in an ice cream maker until thick. Freeze or serve immediately.

Milk and Eggs

Makes 1 quart

3 1/2 cups milk

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

7 egg yolks

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

2 cups shelled, toasted, unsalted pistachios, finely ground.

1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, bring milk to just before the boil. Add the salt.

2. In a mixer, whip the egg yolks and sugar to fluffy, pale yellow ribbons. Whisk about 14 of the milk into the beaten yolks in a thin stream. Pour the egg mixture back into the saucepan. Over medium heat, stir the custard continuously in a figure-eight pattern until it coats the back of a spoon. The bubbles along the pan's edge will diminish when the custard is done.

3. Follow previous recipe from Step 3.

Cream, Milk and Eggs

Makes 1 quart

3 1/3 cups milk

1/3 cup cream

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

9 egg yolks

3/4 cup sugar

2 cups shelled, toasted, unsalted pistachios, finely ground.

1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, bring milk and cream to just before the boil. Add the salt.

2. In a mixer, whip the egg yolks and sugar to fluffy, pale yellow ribbons. Whisk about 14 of the milk and cream into the beaten yolks in a thin stream. Pour the egg mixture back into the saucepan. Over medium heat, stir the custard continuously in a figure-eight pattern until it coats the back of a spoon. The bubbles along the pan's edge will diminish when the custard is done.

3. Follow first recipe from Step 3.